USTravel

A Drive and A Hike to the Top at Yosemite

After our bike ride at Yosemite, it was getting toward late afternoon but we weren’t quite ready to call it quits in the park yet. We decided to finish the day by driving the just-recently-opened road to Glacier Point. This added 15 slow miles of twisting and winding road to the already long drive, but Cal said he was up for it. We began to see snow in the forest after we had gone several miles up the mountain.

Once parked, it is an easy walk on sidewalks to the different viewpoints.

Glacier Point’s elevation is 7,214 feet above sea level, so the view from the top is very spectacular.

Straight ahead in the picture above is Tenaya Canyon, and Basket Dome is on the upper left. Half Dome, on the right, figures prominently in almost every view from this point, and Clouds Rest is to the left of Half Dome. I learned a new word: Clouds Rest is an arete. That is a thin ridge of rock that is left when melting glaciers eroded away solid rock. The melting glacier formed Tenaya Canyon. Looking down from the Clouds Rest you can see its path.

Putting Half Dome to the left of the picture, you can see Nevada Falls and Vernal Falls, with a view of the falls again below. Nevada Falls is the upper falls.

Another view of this beautiful place:

Our park visit had lasted ten hours, and this was the perfect way to end the day.

We wanted to see Yosemite again, but we needed to put a rest day in between. It was a very long drive to the park. Our next visit was on the Thursday before Memorial Day. Now or never!

This time, we were here just a little earlier than the previous visit. This was serious Hike Day for us, and I didn’t want to do it in a crowd of people. We chose to hike Vernal Falls. According to the Park newspaper, it’s 2.4 miles one way. No sweat, right? It wouldn’t be, except for those 600 granite steps up to the top.

The most sedate part of this hike was the one mile walk (not included in the 2.4 mile calculation) to the trailhead from where we parked. Immediately at the Mist Trail trailhead, we started going uphill. A stop at the footbridge to admire the rushing river after a mile and a half gave us a chance to catch our breath.

The steps started after the footbridge, and the falls soon came into view.

The falls created its own wind, drenching us as we worked our way up the uneven steps of varying heights.

And then, the final ascent, along a cliffside to the top:

Finally, Vernal Falls – we made it! We sat in the sun in an effort to dry out and to eat our snacks. We chatted with a couple who had come up with their eight-year-old daughter. She was deservedly very proud of herself.

Looking down on the trail from whence we’d come:

From here, many people continue on to Nevada Falls, or even Half Dome. This was enough for us; it had seriously tested our limits. It had given us a tremendous feeling of accomplishment. But we had led a steadily increasing stream of folks coming up, and with the narrow trail and steep steps, we did not want to go back down the same way. We opted instead for the Lewis and Clark Trail. Although there were a few hills to climb, there weren’t near as many steps, and eventually we were mostly going downhill.

We could look down on the top of the falls where we had just been—

and enjoy our last glimpse of the beautiful mountain wilderness.

With the hike from the parking lot and back included, our total day’s trek was 20,636 steps – 8.46 miles. It had taken us five hours. Pizza on the deck at Curry Village in Yosemite Village was much enjoyed.

Yes, there are crowds at Yosemite, especially near a three day weekend. The park is so large, though, that with a bit of planning anyone can carve out a peaceful slice of this paradise for themselves. It truly is one of our park system’s greatest gems.

Next time – three stops on the road

USTravel

A First Day In Yosemite National Park

We did not have far to go to switch from one RV spot to another while heading to Yosemite. By now we were into the week before Memorial Day, a time of year that I really didn’t want to be in to visit the park. That’s the way calendar planning goes sometimes, so we had to make it work. The very next day after our new setup, Tuesday, we went into the park.

I was afraid of a miles-long wait to get into Yosemite. Massive crowds. Happily, we did not experience that, even for a weekday before a holiday. We did get up at 5 AM to drive the hour and a half trip to get there. The guard shack at the entrance was not even open yet, and we drove right in. Coming through Tunnel View, this is the sight that greeted us:

The morning sunlight streamed in between the peaks, filling the valley with exquisite light and playing a peek-a-boo shadow game with the surrounding cliffs.

From Tunnel View, we proceeded to the Yosemite Valley Floor, and got a spot in the empty parking lot at Yosemite Valley Lodge. It was a short walk across the road, where the climbers in their tiny dome tents at Camp 4 were already packing and ready to take on El Capitan. Down an easy paved trail, and up to Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls, there were only a handful of other folks out.

At Lower Yosemite Falls, I was delighted to see that the sparkling water and morning sun produced a beautiful rainbow.

We had signed up for a Valley Floor Tour, and had some time to kill, so back at the lodge we sampled some pastries. A young man from one of the cities on the California coast shared our table and we had an interesting chat. He was hoping to do some climbing that morning, but wanted to meet someone to buddy up with to do his climb. We were for sure not the right folks for that!

The Valley Floor Tour may have been too sedate an activity for him, but it was a perfect introduction to the park for us as we rode on an open air tram. This is the Three Brothers Peaks:

Our ranger guide told us some interesting stories. The middle peak of the Three Brothers had a rockfall in the 90’s that covered the busy Valley Floor park road. A park ranger heard the rumbling and stopped traffic, despite orders from his supervisor. His actions saved many lives as the large rocks tumbled onto the road.

She also pointed out the climbers on the face of El Capitan, so tiny you could hardly make them out. You certainly can’t see them in my picture, but they are there.

Both our guide and our climber friend from breakfast talked about Alex Honnold, the first person to free solo El Capitan. Free solo means NO ropes or safety gear! There has been a documentary made about him – “Free Solo” which I’d like to watch see sometime.

We got out of the tram to look at the gushing Merced River, with beautiful Bridal Veil Falls as a backdrop. All of the creeks, rivers, and waterfalls were swollen with water due to the late spring snow melt from the higher elevations.

Later in the tour we were able to see Bridal Veil Falls from a bit closer as it tumbled down the cliffside:

Bridal Veil Falls is grand, but the prize for the shortest waterfall – 18 inches high – goes to pretty Fern Spring Waterfall. Our guide told us this little fact, but it may have been tongue-in-cheek.

The tour went up to Tunnel View, where we had stopped on our way in earlier in the day and was where I took the first picture in this post. The rising sun had cast the mighty cliffs in shadows and made it difficult to take pictures. Now we could see everything more clearly, all the way back to Half Dome and Cloud’s Rest.

On the way back to Yosemite Valley Lodge, we learned many more facts about Yosemite as we rode, and received a closer view of Bridal Veil Falls. We felt that this tour was a good “Yosemite 101” introduction to the park and all of its wonders, excellent for a first morning. Not knowing anything about Yosemite to begin with, I had felt a little overwhelmed about what to do when I was planning our visit here. It’s important to book the tour far in advance, though.

One of the best pieces of advice I’d heard is to park once and visit everything on foot, bike, or by shuttle. The parking lot was already packed by the time we returned from the tour. So, we grabbed our e-bikes, put our lunch in my basket, and returned to a picnic area we had seen at Yosemite Falls. We were very glad we had visited the falls early, because now the path was crowded with other tourists.

After lunch, we hadn’t ridden our bikes far when we came to Yosemite Village, where there are some museums. At the Yosemite Museum, I admired the expert weaving of Lucy Telles and her younger sister Alice Wilson. They were both natives who lived in Yosemite most of their lives.

This basket is made of sedge root, bracken fern root, redbud and willow, and took four years to complete.

Behind Yosemite Village is a native village. The Miwok Indians lived in this valley beginning in the 14th century. In the early 1900’s they were considered an asset to the tourist trade, and both Lucy and Alice demonstrated their skills. The Indians are no longer here but their little village is on display.

Here I am in front of, as the sign says, “a ceremonial round house…the center of religious activity.” It is still in use.

The inside of it looks like this:

Back in the museum, I looked at the equipment climbers use, including a cot that can hang off the side of the mountain for the night! No thank you! And here, I learned more about Alex Honnold.

Nearby stands this statue and display board of John Muir:

There is an exhaustive list of things John Muir did in his lifetime, but among them he was a naturalist, environmentalist, and champion for the preservation of wilderness: namely, Yosemite Valley, Sequoia National Park, and the Sierra Nevada Mountains in which they exist.

Another luminary of Yosemite is Ansel Adams, a photographer and, like Muir, an environmentalist. He’s perhaps the best known for his black and white landscape photos of the West and Yosemite. I popped into the Ansel Adams Gallery at Yosemite and admired some of the photos but it seemed to be more of a shop to purchase them and other items.

We were ready for some real bike riding by this time, and the crowds around Yosemite Village were thick. There is a nice trail but there is also a bike rental place which adds to the number of people on it. Finally, it cleared out because most people didn’t ride far. The valley opened up and we had a beautiful ride.

Looking at Half Dome on the Yosemite Valley bike trail

We packed even more into this very special day, but that’s for next time.

Next time – Yosemite – the best view, and a challenging hike upward