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An Unexpected Day in Reno, and Horsing Around at Washoe Lake State Park Nevada

I didn’t have a clue what Reno would be like, but I imagined something like we’d seen in Las Vegas. Remembering our time there, we knew we didn’t want to drive our truck into the city. We took an Uber instead, and our driver was very chatty. He said that beginning twenty years ago, less people began to come to Reno. Older hotels and casinos closed, and some have been torn down, leaving empty lots. We saw some empty storefronts and boarded up casinos. He pointed out the two or three that were still good places to go. New casino resorts are here, they just aren’t being built much on the old Strip.

Downloading a walking tour of Las Vegas had been a good idea, so I did the same for Reno. I had our driver drop us off at the Reno sign. Following the walking tour, this meant that we did not walk past any casinos at all, which was fine. The Strip didn’t look enticing enough to check out. And so, this whole day was totally different than I had envisioned.

We walked through City Plaza, with the Truckee River flowing by below it.

We actually found a piece of the Irish Blarney Stone. You don’t have to go to Ireland to see it!

Tourists in Ireland go through great lengths to kiss the Blarney Stone. I guess here in Reno they thought that just rubbing it might be a better idea.

We looked at the copper-colored geodesic dome of the Performing Arts Center and took a peek inside the old Post Office. Next up was the Riverwalk area which was quiet on a Saturday morning.

We went off-tour through the beautiful city park, where people were floating down the river.

We were off the tour route and passing by the park on our way to Washoe Public House for a delicious lunch.

Back to the tour, we visited the West Street Market. I had looked forward to this, but disappointingly, it was no longer a market. Was this tour written pre-covid? I hadn’t checked the date.

Our last stop was at the beautiful Thomas Aquinas Cathedral. It has a beautiful wrap around mural in the front from the 1950’s, thought to be one of the finest works of art in America.

We had come to the end of the walking tour. Cal was tired of walking on city streets and hot concrete. He was ready to call it done, but I didn’t feel done with Reno. He took an Uber back to the RV park, and I walked back past where we’d had lunch to the Nevada Museum of Art.

At first, I was a little disappointed. It was smaller than I thought it would be, with no permanent exhibits due to construction. But an eager docent took me through an exhibit by Cannupa Hanska Luger, an artist who is of mixed Native and European ancestry, entitled “Speechless”. She made the art come alive with her interpretations of his various pieces.

It was the second exhibit that stole my heart. It displayed the art of Maynard Dixon, who lived from 1875-1946. He painted the West, including Nevada. I love the paintings that I saw, some capturing the red rocks at sunset, and immersed myself in his life and work. He really got the feel of the Nevada landscape. Dixon also illustrated in magazines and books of the day and wrote poetry.

Mountains in Sunset Light” – Maynard Dixon
A self-portrait mural, “Welcome and Goodbye!”

The other thing that I learned about him was that he was married for a time to Dorothea Lange, a well-regarded photographer in her own right whose works I have admired. She was the mother to their two sons.

I’m sure the Reno strip would have appeared differently at night. The Riverwalk is regarded as a great place to visit and perhaps have dinner after taking in the casinos. But we did not return.

It had been a short stay at the park in Sparks, outside of Reno, and one of our nights had been out of the RV in South Lake Tahoe at a lodge. But I was happy to move on, especially since the next three nights were a grand total of 32 miles down to Washoe Lake State Park.

We had a beautiful spot here–

–with beautiful views of the Sierra Nevadas. The lake that gives the park its name was between our RV and the mountains. Scrubby hills lined with cedar trees were behind us.

All of this would be very fine, in and of itself. But the thing that makes this park extra special is the wild horse herd that lives here.

We’d seen them as we’d driven in and out of the park. One morning we drove the truck out to a trailhead to hike in order to see them closer. From the path, we watched a group of horses.

In the distance, we saw a larger group having breakfast lakeside. The two colts on the front left were frolicking and running together so they were fun to watch.

I was busy photographing them when Cal came up and said in a low voice, “You might want to turn around.” The first group was coming up right behind us on the path! They did not seem to have any fear of us, but were definitely minding their own business as they clip-clopped by.

Seeing so many horses in this gorgeous natural environment was a real treat. Afterwards, Cal drove the truck back to our spot but I opted to take a long hike back. Horses were still in view. There was a group hanging around the restrooms at the picnic area. It must be true what they say…the grass is always greener over the septic tank?

For a time, I was walking along the Washoe Lake shore, where a lone horse was doing the same.

In all, we had sighted over 60 horses on this morning.

We never know what lies around the bend on our travels. Some sights are not quite what we think they will be, but others go over and beyond our expectations. That is the surprise and the gift of the journey.

Next time – we visit Virginia City

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Adventures on the Road – Coarsegold to Sparks

The Coarsegold River at SKP Park of the Sierras, California

Our stay for the Yosemite visits was in Coarsegold, California. In those blogs I alluded to the fact that it was a long distance from the park. If we ever find our way back here, I might look for a closer spot, but at least we didn’t have to worry about the road being open for the year.

This stop was at an Escapees (SKP) Co-op Park. We’ve been members of Escapees because they handle our mail, and have stayed at their flagship park in Livingston, Texas. This was the first Co-op park we’d stayed in. Members buy into the park and own their site. They are responsible for maintaining it and contributing to the greater good of the park. There is no outside technical maintenance. When members are away, they can release their site into a pool so the park can rent it out. That is how we were able to stay.

We opted for a tour of the park in a golf cart, and Brian was our guide as part of his contribution to it. The first owners, he told us, were called Pioneers, and they built the park on the bare bones of the newly-purchased land. Aside from initial Escapees assistance, the park was built completely on the talents of the new owners.

Notice anything funny about that stagecoach?

This large stained-glass piece hangs over the clubhouse. It was conceptualized by an expert original owner who enlisted a team of women, who initially had no experience in stained-glasscrafting, to assist him.

A stagecoach is the park’s logo because a stagecoach road ran through here. In a brilliant move, more land was purchased than was needed for sites because of fear of nearby development down the road. The park is very private and there are not even any signs outside of it to tell you that you are here. An entire portion of the park has been left to nature. Brian showed us the original stagecoach road. It is now a walking path that leads to the Coarsegold River, shown at the top of this post.

The stagecoach road leads to to the river, and there are more walking paths beyond it. Once Brian showed this to us, I was easily able to get my daily steps in on walks through this beautiful natural area.

We considered and discussed, not seriously, over the long Memorial weekend if we would want to buy into this park. In the end, we decided that we didn’t like the idea of maintaining a site. We’re retired and live in an RV, why would we possibly want to mow grass?? For volunteer work for the park, neither of us are talented in technical or grounds maintenance, although Brian’s tour gig in the golf cart didn’t look too bad to me – or working in the office. The killer, though, is that the entire park is on a steep Sierra Nevada hill. The clubhouse is at the bottom, our site was at the back, and that made for some steep walking anytime we went back and forth. The tree-covered hill made for a lot of beautiful views and very private sites, but long term? No thank you. There’s a waiting list to buy in, anyway.

So we moved on, north and a little west. The roadway treated us for miles to gorgeous blooming oleander in the median, huge bushes sometimes seven or eight feet tall, spilling into each other in a riot of pink, red and occasional white.

We used our Harvest Host membership for a one-night stay at Jessie’s Grove Winery in Lodi, California. Here, we shared a table, a glass of wine and a late-afternoon charcuterie plate with a tuxedo cat.

She was so cute that we couldn’t help giving her a couple nibbles of cheese, whereupon she curled up for a nap on the far corner of the table.

This was a ranch, begun in 1868 by one Joseph Spenker who planted the first vines, and the winery is still owned by his descendants. Some of their Zinfandel grapes are among the oldest in the state. There are old olive trees in the front and flowers everywhere. The winery comes with more than one tuxedo cat, and two horses out in the pasture.

This was a very photogenic farm and I took way too many pictures for an overnight stay. There were no other RV’ers here for the night, and once they shut down at 6 PM for the day we had the place to ourselves. We took an evening walk through grapevine-lined paths.

All was quiet in the morning as well. I took another walk through a path in the oak tree woods with nut shells under my feet before we headed out.

Cal had a tough driving day, owing to road construction and heavy traffic and a turn in error (Garmin’s fault) in Sacramento. There was more traffic and reduced lanes going over the Donner Pass, at 7200 feet. Over through Truckee, and we were now in Nevada. I gazed longingly northward as we drove east, because I would really like to explore northern California. We’ll have to do that another time.

The road led us to Sparks, Nevada and Sparks Marina RV on the east side of Reno. Funny thing, there is no marina here. We could walk down the road to a small lake, but there’s no marina there either.

From behind where I took this picture, there is a developed community with walking paths which open up into an interesting retail area. The lake, which used to be a quarry, has a walking path all the way around it. I’m impressed with the city planning that went into this little corner of town.

The far side of the lake has a park which was very busy on a Sunday morning. They did a great job putting in a new memorial for those who have lost their lives in the service of our country.

Although our RV park had its shortcomings, there was one thing interesting about it: all of the sites are covered with bright green Astroturf.

It wasn’t what I had envisioned for a stay in this part of the country. That didn’t matter much, though. As it turned out, we didn’t spend a lot of time here, as you’ll see in the next post.

Next time: Lake Tahoe