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Stories of Western Pennsylvania Travels

A dogwood in full bloom – Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania

If you think about a battlefield in Pennsylvania, I’m sure Gettysburg comes to mind. But no, we were still near Ohiopyle, a hundred and fifty miles away to the west.

Cal wanted to get the oil changed in the truck, so on his way in to Farmington he dropped me off at Ft. Necessity National Battlefield. I wanted to get my National Park book stamped, but I also wanted to see what it was about.

I spent some time in the Visitors Center, boning up on my American history. There is a short video to watch, too. Here’s the information I gleaned: this site was the catalyst of the French-Indian-British wars that would last for about 7 years. Before the American Revolution ever started, there were trade disputes with the French to the north, British to the south, and Indians stuck in between.

In May of 1754 a group of British soldiers, led by none other than a young inexperienced George Washington, surprised some French soldiers in nearby Jumon Glen. No one knows who fired the first shot (the excellent video told both sides of the story).To add insult to injury, an Indian on the British side killed their leader. Of course, that led to more fighting on both sides that spread to a conflict that would rattle the European world for years to come, and ultimately lead to victory for the British.

After their victory at Jumon Glen, Washington saw trouble coming, and built Ft. Necessity. It has been reconstructed according to archeological finds. Coming down the trail and first seeing it, I was surprised by how tiny it was!

I was able to get a little more perspective on it by going inside. This cabin, probably Washington’s headquarters and lodging, takes up the almost whole fort.

It didn’t take long to visit. But something else had intrigued me in the Visitors Center: the story of the National Road.

George Washington’s men had had to hack through trees and brush in order to get to this natural meadow. Once the Revolution passed, people were starting to push west. There were not only settlers but also tradespeople. With the first section completed in 1811, the National Road had been established. It was the first federally financed highway.

By 1850, the National Road looked like this.

In modern times, this road has been replaced by US State Route 40. Nothing was said about Interstate 70, but it follows the same route.

Mount Washington Tavern is also part of the Ft. Necessity park. It was built in the 1830’s when traffic on the National Road was hopping. People needed sustenance, a place to stay, and a change of horses. It became a stop on the Good Intent stagecoach line.

My only picture of the outside is above, on the side, as I hiked up to it. It’s a 3-story brick structure. I sure could have used a nice cold lemonade about then, owing to the heat and the small hill I’d had to climb, but I was about 200 years too late.

The tavern was the surprise of the day. I knew nothing about it, and tried the door: open. Creeeak! Absolutely no one around. It is self-guided.

A traveler would have come into the main hall. There is a lovely parlor on the left.

Looking to the right, I could see why the parlor had been so nice: it was for women and families. The men would have congregated in the bar.

When a bell was rung, everyone came to dinner in the dining room, family-style, around one big table.

Upstairs, men and women slept in separate bedrooms. It would not have been unusual to share a bed with a stranger. If the sheets had been washed in the past few days, you were lucky.

Your hotel room for the night, 1850’s style. Oh, you wanted a bed to yourself? Sorry, we’re full…

And, I was feeling lucky that I had been born in the latter half of the 20th century. I really enjoyed this peek into the past.

Our time in Ohiopyle was sadly over. It had been a full and enjoyable couple of days, and I was sorry to move on.

More fun was ahead, though, as we moved northward on the National Road and other roads to Lake Pymatuning State Park. This lake straddles the two states of Pennsylvania and Ohio not far south of Lake Erie. We stayed on the Pennsylvania side.

Lake Pymatuning is a lake that is probably much like countless others that dot the Midwest. For me, though, it has some faded memories. When my family lived in a Cleveland suburb, we came here for camping trips in our family tent. I remember swimming with a (real) inner tube and eating tons of my mother’s pancakes, although I may not have the right park in my mind.

Early morning fishing on Lake Pymatuning

We arrived in a downpour. We could not remember the last time we had to set up in the rain. That showed us that our site had excellent drainage. By the next morning, all was clear.

My Dad would pile my brothers into a rented row boat for some fishing. Always a rowboat. I don’t know if motor boats were as much of a thing back then, or if he just didn’t want to pay what I’m sure would have been a higher cost. If I was really lucky, I was invited along. They would give me a little bamboo pole but I don’t remember catching anything.

My family was strictly in the camp of eating whatever we caught. No “catch and release” for us, unless it was “just” a little sunfish. My Dad and brothers would clean the fish and my mother would fry them up for supper. What would she do if there were not enough? I don’t know, she always made plenty to eat.

There was an Amish encampment here with a lot of kids. Perhaps there was more than one family. As I walked by, they had a huge pile of bikes behind their tent. Instead of seats, though, they had skateboard platforms. I’d never seen these before. A young man unwittingly demonstrated how they work as he flew all over the campground.

My first thought was, “They’re not even allowed to sit on a bike?” Cal pointed out that it is just better exercise to stand rather than sit, since he had seen these before.

Our stay here was relaxing and idyllic. We were in a smaller, quieter loop than the main one with its beach, playground, dock and fish cleaning station. It looked like folks were mainly local, and a lot of people just had tents.

We did get out a bit. The thing to do is to drive up to the spillway and feed the fish. I did not know what the big deal is about that, but apparently it has gone on for years. The catchphrase is “Where the ducks walk on the fish!”

The fish are carp and there were a lot more geese than ducks, but that is something that changes with the seasons. There were SO many geese, and SO many big fat carp all vying for a bit of bread…or Cheerios.

I do not remember my parents bringing us here. My sister Gloria says that our Mom would have used every scrap of her homemade bread in her cooking, and my ever-practical Dad would never have bought us bread just to feed fish and ducks. I would tend to agree. But this was evidently a thing as far back as the 30’s, according to the signboard. You can buy an entire loaf of bread for $1 to feed them. It is a feeding frenzy.

The board also noted that, while it is now known that bread is not the best thing to feed waterfowl and fish, the culture and tradition are being honored. It’s prohibited to do this anywhere else.

We left the fish, and their gaping mouths, and drove along the causeway into Ohio to the little town of Andover for lunch. The main part of the town is on a square. It seems like there should be a courthouse on that square, but there is a nice park instead. The city street goes around the square in one direction. On the edge of the square is a gas station, and behind it and off to the side is the town grocery store. This has the effect of keeping the old town busy, and is brilliant city planning.

We ate lunch at West Side Deli, which is in yellow lettering at the far left of the above picture. We ordered the shrimp basket special, and while we were waiting for lunch a steady stream of customers flowed in. They were giving free hot dogs to the kids. I had gotten into conversation with another customer, and she said for sure it is a once-a-week event, if not more often. It’s really wonderful to see a business supporting the community in this way.

There is also a campground on the Ohio side of Lake Pymatuning, and we drove through it. It is smaller than the Pennsylvania park we were in, but it looks a little more familiar. I’m not sure if this isn’t where my family camped, because it was all too long ago.

At Ohiopyle and Pymatuning, we were at the farthest south and east that we would be on this trip. From here eastward, the only place to go is back to Ohio. And that is a story for next time.

Next time: we visit the Cleveland area, and old friends too

USTravel

Fallingwater and Ohiopyle,Pennsylvania

We drove 200 miles to see a house.

Not just any house, though. Fallingwater is one of the finest from Frank Lloyd Wright, the famous architect. It lies in the Laurel Highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania and about 70 miles south of Pittsburgh.

A picture like this first drew me to the house. The steps go right down into the stream from the living room! I can imagine sitting on those steps in the morning with a hot cup of tea, or dipping my toes in the stream on a hot day. That is also a spring-fed pool on the right.

Edward Kaufmann was the owner of Pittsburgh’s finest and largest department store. He had a wife and one son, and they enjoyed coming to these hills for vacations. The site originally was a summer camp and he would bring employees out by train. Edward and his wife contracted with Mr. Wright in 1935 to build the home and its guesthouse at a cost of $35,000. The final cost ballooned to $148,000 with $11,300 in architect’s fees.

The forest around Fallingwater is full of rhododendrons, but they weren’t in bloom yet. Our guide showed us that the light ocher color under the rhododendron leaves match the color of the house. The only other color used is red, a favorite of his.

Wright always wanted his houses to be in complete harmony with their surroundings. He thought the house should be horizontally orientated and in layers, like the rocks that you see behind the water in the picture below, and made from the same rock.

This idea is repeated in many features of the house, such in the dining room.

The house is built to bring in light and the beauty of the surrounding forest. The steps to the stream go down from behind and to the left of this picture.

Artwork from the masters such as Picasso and Diego Rivera are on the walls and decorating the house, as well as treasures from art galleries and antique shops from here and abroad.

There is a viewpoint which we could walk to to see the house as Frank Lloyd Wright intended. The Kaufmanns thought the house might be nice alongside the stream. Wright thought it should be on the stream, and right over a waterfall, so that’s where he put it.

When the Kaufmanns’ son, Edward Jr., grew up and his parents died, he started a foundation and donated the whole house, including the contents, to it. Money was added to maintain it in perpetuity, for everyone to enjoy. Today, the house is a UNESCO site.

The Youhiogheny River flows by Ohiopyle with the Ohiopyle Falls in view from walkways that front the town. A state park by the same name also is right here. This picture is from the visitor center viewing platforms.

In planning for this part of the trip, the house was the focus. What I did not realize at first was that it lies in another beautiful area, much like Hocking Hills in Ohio. And there is another Wright house to visit, Kentuck Knob. We did not visit that one because there were other things to see in and around the nearby town of Ohiopyle.

You can hear the sound of flowing water everywhere you walk in Ohiopyle.

Speaking of the state park visitors center, I really liked the small sculptures that went along with the signboards on the walkway to the building. George Washington declared the Youhiogeny River unnavigable, after trying to get down it on a raft. The sculpture really puts it in perspective.

Maybe he just needed to relax and go with the flow, as today’s rafters do.

We chose not to get on the water, but rode our bikes on the rails-to-trails that went over the river not far from the falls.

Hikers can walk over the bridge and onto one of the many paths, including old growth forest and a natural area full of ferns.

When the rail line was originally built, it brought passengers from Pittsburgh for a dollar. Resorts and all manner of entertainment lined the river. Eventually, as automobiles replaced the train, the resorts were torn down and the forest has been allowed to regrow and become Ohiopyle State Park. The rail line is now a 150-mile hiking and biking trail, renamed the Great Allegheny Passage Trail.

We rode five miles out and back in one direction, then repeated the same in the other, for a total of twenty miles. Gorgeous views abound, especially from the two rail bridges—

–and in the woods.

The trail followed the river from on high and alongside, and there were more waterfalls. Signboards directed us to look at things we may have otherwise missed. This is coal country, and after reading one sign we looked up to see a coal seam in the rock ledge. Another sign told about the first settlers, and without that board we may have missed a rock wall that is still here directly behind it.

There are open meadows – perhaps they were once settlers’ homesteads – that are now designated pollinator sanctuaries. We stopped at a shelter near one of them. Gigantic bumblebees, butterflies, and all manner of bugs were flying about. There are a lot of birds, too, judging by the birdsong. It must be a feast for them, but we did not want to be that feast, so we didn’t stop for long.

After riding bikes, hiking, floating the river, or seeing Fallingwater, there are a lot of great places for lunch in Ohiopyle. We had delicious gyros with a view of the trail and falls at Falls Market Restaurant.

The RV park we were staying in bumped right up behind the state park, and we enjoyed its peacefulness. Our door looked out onto this little pond.

This pond was closely guarded by a pair of watch ducks. As you can see below left in the above picture, they are snoozing on the job. Every time I walked by, they would fuss and cluck to let me know they didn’t approve of me getting close, even if I wasn’t close. I saw them one morning pecking on the glass office door. A few minutes later, someone came out with a bucket of feed and dumped it by their tree. It was a feast for the squirrels when they were finished!

Next time – a battlefield, a tavern and a lake